So if we don't lie in and we don't go for a walk what do we do? A drive out somewhere new is the usual agenda. I had always wanted to go to Saffron Walden ever since I heard about the turf maze they have there. I am a sucker for anything iron age or prehistoric or of unknown origin and date. Chalk horses, ring stones, dolmens, runes. Sign me up.
So it was off to Saffron Walden.
Saffron Walden is an historic and picturesque town located on the northern edge of Essex. It has a rich and interesting history and is a veritable repository of Tudor architecture. Its main claim to fame is a turf maze but it had a couple of charming surprises including Bridge End public gardens and the Saffron Walden museum. Saffron Walden is easy to get to by car being just off the M11 south of Cambridge and is only an hour’s journey by train from London. Tudor period houses line the streets and sport elaborate pargetting, the plasterwork embellishment that is representative of that period. It was once a walled town and the rich Essex and Suffolk farmland surrounding it produced the rare and expensive spice saffron. Its name gives away its own history: Saffron Walled In.
As well as the turf maze there are two other sites that should not be missed when visiting Saffron Walden: the town museum and Bridge End Gardens. These three points, along with a multitude of listed buildings made for a very pleasant and interesting itinerary. What made it even better was that it was all free! Although it should be noted that the museum is not always free of charge. It just happened to be an open day on the day we visited.
With gas at the premium it is these days and being on a budget getting in the car for a day out or a drive is not as spontaneous as it used to be. Value for money is what I require. If I have to pay for the gas to get there then what I am going to see has to be worth the price of transportation. Never mind admission.
Saffron Walden was definitely worth it.
The Turf Maze
The turf maze was the main reason why I wanted to go to Saffron Walden. I have known about it for years. It was an odd experience to finally see. It is just… there.
It is stuck at the far side of the village green right beside the road. Other than the small plaque with some basic information there is nothing else that sets it apart form the field. I am not sure what I expected. Perhaps a large field in which the maze was central and set off by further landscaping and gardens. It is also quite small. The path of the maze is a mile long but the area the whole thing takes up, with its circumlocutions, can’t be more than 40 yards in diameter. The fun fair that had set up right beside it for the day didn’t really help either.
Technically a labyrinth, the turf maze is it an incredibly convoluted path that is not a puzzle to be solved, with many dead ends and such, but a metaphor for a spiritual journey. You just get on path and follow it to the centre. Such curiosities were used in the pre-Christian era for pagan ceremonies and rituals. Luckily, its pagan connotations were not held against it in less tolerant times. Perhaps because similar labyrinths were later constructed for Christian purposes. If repeated the requisite number of times, walking the maze often substituted for a pilgrimage to Rome or the Holy Land.
It was put to less dreary use more recently when, apparently, the lads and lasses of the village would play a rather salacious game. A maiden would stand in the centre and the boys would race to complete the mile circuit to win a kiss.
Oh la la
It is, in spite of its rather prosaic situation, very well maintained and respected. Town pride is quite rare in England. Vandalism and littering are endemic and of epidemic proportions in many places. Even rural ones. As a Canadian, for whom landscape and public property are sacrosanct, I have never understood this. For such a feature to have survived to modern times and withstand town expansion is unusual and would seem to indicate that it is inextricably linked to the town’s pride and identity.
It is not a tourist destination. We seemed to be the only looky-lous there. There aren’t any gift shops or souvenirs. The town has totally failed to capitalise on such an unusual and historic feature.
It is one of those situations where I really need to be in charge. There would at least be a penny mangle if I had anything to do with anything.
The Museum
The museum was a hidden and unexpected gem. The lady at the tourist bureau recommended it and we thought it would be just a tiny room with a few bits a pieces on the wall about the town and one or two relics presented as evidence for the town’s historical status.
It was hooge. For a town of that size it was amazingly comprehensive.
Contained in a large Victorian edifice it is not just a repository for the history of Saffron Walden and its surrounds but it is also a full blown Natural and World History museum. It kept us occupied for a good couple of hours!
When did educational start to equal fun? For that was the very moment that I got old. You would think that would be a moment worthy of remembrance. But I don't remember. Sigh.
We learned tons of great stuff. I was especially interested in the unusual plasterwork (pargetting) on all the Tudor buildings in the town. I could have SWORN I had never seen such a thing before but after, on the drive home down exactly the same road as the drive in, I saw it every where. There was a very good display on the history and technique of this architectural feature.
They also had fossils and such in a natural history section. Dave stood in horrified and fascinated awe of the zillion year old fossil of HORSETAIL. His garden, and most gardens in Derbyshire, is plagued by this indestructible prehistoric weed. If cockroaches are going to be the only thing to survive a nuclear/ecological disaster then the only thing they will have to eat is horsetail. Oh and each other. I suppose a cockroach would eat another cockroach?
The example on display, like all other living things of the olde-zoic era, was truly comedy sized. We discussed this. This seemingly inexplicable disappearance of all things comedy sized since the last ice age. As if natural selection lost its sense of humour.
The comedy sized horsetail was definitely not funny. At least Dave didn't think so. The great great grandmother of his nemesis. I think the word Bastard actually came out when he saw it.
As well as all the usual stuffed birds and hedgehogs demonstrating the history and biodiversity of the hedgerow (ubiquitous in small local English museums) there was a large room filled with all sorts of paraphernalia from what one would now call Aboriginal Cultures o’ the World. There were even some examples of Salish bead work which was good to see.
But the best thing about the museum? It was free. But only on that particular day for some reason. I don't remember what the admission prices were. Because I did not need to know. It was free. YAY.
We did splurge a little and spend 40p at their book sale. We are now totally armed for any dinner party situation with Emily Post's tips. There were like 50 of these little tomes for sale. 20p each. How could you NOT?
Bridge End Gardens
The morning had actually been rather grey and chilly which is why we probably spent so much time in the museum.
But coming out of the musty academic dark we found a glorious afternoon of September sun. It was time for beer and a look at the tourist bureau map.
The tourist bureau lady recommended Bridge End gardens and they were free and there was a hedge maze. So after beer we tooled up for a stroll down the main street and got a bit lost trying to find the entrance.
Bridge End Gardens is another hidden gem. They could be mistaken for a conventional example of Victorian landscape architecture but if you pay attention you will find they have a bit of a sense of humour. What at first appears symmetrical is just that little bit off balance. A kind of proto-surrealism come to to life.
There is a smallish hedge maze as well. This one is a true maze that you have to navigate and solve. We had no trouble finding our way out but I think that was mostly luck. We met a few poor souls who had been wandering amongst the hedges for quite some time.
In the spring and height of summer it would be a paradise but even in the early autumn with the roses finished and beds mostly bare this was a charming and tranquil pleasure. There are many sculptures and topiaries and a fountains. There is also a viewing platform, the view from which makes the climb more than worth while.
Recommendations
We had a very pleasant afternoon in Saffron Walden and it delivered much more than I expected. As a value for money outing in the English countryside it was quite a success. Not at all touristy but full of character and interest.
If you go on a Saturday the market will be on which added some hustle and bustle to this picturesque Tudor relic.Otherwise it was rather quiet.
The only criticism I would have is that there was a distinct lack of good beer. The pubs are few and run of the mill. Not a one serving real ale. I had to settle for a Greene King IPA. Sheesh!
If you are looking for a place to shop or dine then this is probably not going to meet great expectations. There were one or two charity shops and a couple gift boutiques but the rest was common high street fare.
If you are looking for a pleasant and interesting morning or afternoon out then I would definitely recommend seeing Saffron Walden and its many hidden gems.
For more pictures of Saffron Waldon please visit the FLICKR photo set
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